Books, blog and other blather

Category: Random Korea stuff (Page 2 of 4)

Hallyu Riptides

So, I’ve kindly been invited to speak at the 10 magazine book club this Saturday (thanks to Barry for the invitation).  And although I’m still not 100 percent sure what I’ll be saying, I’m happy to say that I finished my Prezi presentation this evening.

(One thing I like about Prezi is that it gives you some flexibility to riff, if you want).

Usually, I just talk about Korean pop culture history, but I think this Saturday I will mix things up and combine Korean history with a bit of personal history, and talk about how I got into writing and how the writing business has changed over the years. (Or I might not … all is subject to change).

Details:

Saturday, July 26, 4pm

Haechi Hall at the Seoul Global Culture & Tourism Center in Myeongdong

Cost: 5,000 won

 

Random Seoul stuff

So, I was walking around Seoul a few days ago, dropping off copies of K-Pop Now to some of the companies that helped me out with the book. When I went to Sidus HQ (home of Jay Park), I was surprised to see they had found a new home. Their longtime location, close to the COEX Mall in Samseong-dong, was pretty drab. But their new building (about one subways stop away) is really swank.

Sadly, it was also too big for my lousy camera. But the building really does look like an impenetrable fortress. Finding the entrance was not easy.

 

Here is a view from the interior stairwell:

I then took a ride in the subway, where I discovered an ad for a plastic surgery clinic — for men. How common are they?

(Sorry for being out of focus … I was trying not to creep out the people sitting there).

I thought I found another one in the same car, but it turns out this ad is focusing on women getting surgery:

It reads, “Boyfriend quietly, I am on my knees, begging you to recommend me the place…” (meaning the place where his girlfriend got her surgery).

A bit later, I took a walk along the Cheonggyecheon stream. In wintertime, it is a bit sparse, but on the plus side, there was almost no one there. Very peaceful for the middle of Seoul.

Of course, the last time I took a photo of the Cheonggyeocheon, when I returned to Korea last summer, it looked like this:

Starbucks nation

I can remember when the first Starbucks opened in Korea — just outside of the front gate of Ehwa Womans University (sic). Reportedly, it was then the only Starbucks in the world with a smoking section.

Anyhow, I was looking for a Starbucks to meet someone for an interview, and this is what Shinchon/Hongdae looks like now:

And Jongno/downtown Seoul:

 

And all of Seoul:

Thursday links

  • One of the more fascinating parts of North Korea, in my opinion, is the Pyongyang University of Science and Technology, a school largely funded and run by Christian Korean-Americans. I’ve been lucky enough to get to know one PUST founder Dr. Park Chan-mo — himself the former president of the Pohang University of Science and Technology — and interviewed him a few times, although mostly about science in South Korea. Anyhow, I don’t use the term “must see” very often, but I think if you are at all interested in North Korea, this doc is a must see, especially 5min-15min. (BBC)
  • The power of Korean TV drama. An obscure children’s book gets mentioned in My Love From the Stars, and it turns into a hit, selling 100,000 copies in weeks. (Chosun Ilbo)
  • The new KT boss seems to be clearing house. 52 of 53 affiliate heads replaced. Out with political appointees, in with (gasp) actual professionals. (Korea JoongAng Daily)
  • I’ve lost track of the amusement park projects that have been “announced” but never built. Paramount. Universal. Now here’s one more, supposedly the size of Yeouido, coming to the island around Incheon International Airport. (Korea JoongAng Daily)
  • Incidentally, I used to go to the beach on the far side of Yongyu Island, back when the airport was still under construction. You had to take a ferry there. But it was tiny and dead-quiet. Cannot believe what it has turned into.
  • Fun little story about hot chocolate and Cacao Boom. There’s a branch near near my apartment, so I found it nice to read about its founder, Go Young-ju. (Korea JoongAng Daily)
  • An interview with ex-T-ara member Hwayoung on trying to break into acting and her problems with the girl group. My original headline was “Bully for Hwayoung,” but the desk head made me change it; that made me sad. (Korea JoongAng Daily)
  • While I’m happy that Seoul is tearing down most of its ugly overpasses, part of me feels strange to see the Ahyeon overpass go. I’ve walked past it so many times over the years, it feels like a bit of me. Still, I’m sure it will make that part of town much nicer once it is gone. (Korea JoongAng Daily)

Social Mobility in Korea

A couple of thoughts on the decline of social mobility in Korea, which has been in the headlines and opinion pages lately. In case you had not heard, a survey by a government think tank showed that fewer Koreans are exiting poverty today compared to eight years ago. In 2005, 31.7% of low-income households rose to middle- or high-level, but in 2012, only 23.5% did so.

Troubling, to be sure. But it is interesting to note how little of this problem in Korea is about wages. Korea has one of the most equal wage structures in the world — before taxes. After taxes, it drops to 20th (just ahead of Canada), but back in the mid-00s, it fell to 17th, so a bit of a drop relative to other countries.

The big problem in Korea is not so much wages as it is the rising cost of housing and education, and the debts that come with them. Which is why it drives me nuts listening to newspapers, other pundits and the government talk about “re-starting the moribund real estate market.” The real estate market is already overpriced and harming Korean families; driving prices higher is insanity.

Education is crazy, too. Or, rather, schooling is. As I have written before, that is more about rent seeking and high barriers to entry in the labor market than it is about any real interest in education. Until Korea fixes how its companies and leading the government hires and promotes, nothing will change about its universities; and until people’s perspectives on going to university changes, nothing about its education system will change. Like the real estate market, this is basic economics — you have an inelastic, high-demand resource (the top 3 schools), so everyone is pursuing the same objective. And, as you learn on page 1 of your economics textbook, in a perfectly free market, profits drive to zero.

It’s worth noting, though, that while Koreans are very sensitive to inequality, they also remain very hopeful that things will be better for their children. That optimism is very important.

UPDATE: Oh, and keeping Korea’s well-educated women out of the workforce isn’t helping any.

 

Mark’s Adventures in Jeonja-land

Well, it looks like Yongsan’s electronics market, Jeonja Land, has seen better days. I took a walk there a couple of days ago, looking to pick up a couple of things, in what was probably my first trip there in five years. It wasn’t pretty. I guess the Internet age and online shopping has pretty much killed the need for a giant cluster of electronics (especially overpriced electronics sold by surly, dodgy shopkeepers).

On the other hand, there are more old vinyl shops on the second floor than ever. That’s pretty cool.

Yongsan’s old main building (where, if memory serves, I bought a 166 MHz computer for around $1,000 back in 1998) is all closed now. It is only open so you can access the walkway to Yongsan Station.

Here’s the biggest building in Korea.

Well, it would have been, if the development project hadn’t fallen through.

Even the new electronics market in the main Yongsan Station building is not in very good shape. The area set aside for electronics keeps getting smaller, while other types of shopping move in and take up the slack.

After shopping I did some walking around in the stretch from Yongsan to Seoul stations. Most of the old colonial buildings are gone now (not that they were in great shape before), but you can find a few here and there. I think what I like most about that neighborhood is the random things you run across. Like this Lotte E&C site, which apparently uses some old building.

 

It’s a neighborhood full of these sorts of little alleys, with a mix of old buildings and exposed wires.

And, as an added bonus, here’s a great door. Yes, up there on the third floor, with the little gate in front of it. I can only assume there used to be a fire escape there or another building or the like that was torn down.

 That’s all. Just a random walk and a bit of shopping in a cool part of town that has seen better days.

 

If you are into cigars…

Just a little note for anyone out there in Korea who is a fan of cigars — there’s a fairly new tobacco shop in Donggyo-dong that is quite impressive.

Called Pipe Story, it is mostly a pipe tobacco place (unsurprisingly), but they also have a walk-in humidor, and since opening in August, it has been getting a steadily better selection. In addition to some good, cheaper smokes from the Philippines and Brazil, it also has a huge selection of Oliva cigars (my favorite), and it just got a whole bunch of Arturo Fuertes.

Here’s a map of the store (only Korean, sorry). As you can see, it is about halfway between Hongik Subway Station and Shinchon Subway Station. (Another version is here).

Hardcore

Last night, while walking home at 11 pm in the -7 degree weather, I passed a 20-something guy sitting outside, in front of a convenience store, wearing an okay jacket, but no hat or gloves. He was eating instant ramyeon noodles, checking his cell phone and smoking, all at the same time — three activities, two hands. Freezing cold. It struck me as the most hardcore Korean thing I’ve seen in ages.

Sadly, I was too wimpy to take a photo. He deserved immortality.

 

Seoul From on High

Yesterday Seoul had perhaps the clearest skies I’ve seen since returning to Korea. From my office in the west of Seoul, I could see Mount Gwanak in the south and apartment complexes from all over the city. There were some great clouds, too.

My office is pretty high up, but the windows are tinted, so you cannot really take decent photos from inside. But then I realized that the building has a helicopter pad on the roof. So I headed up and tried taking some photos from there.

First I went up in the middle of the afternoon. Here’s a pic looking west. You can see Banghwa Bridge far off on the left, and Ilsan to the distance, slightly to the right:

Later, I went up around sundown, when the magic hour was turning the city orange:

And here’s the view to the east. You can see the new high-rises at Hapjeong, then Yeouido behind them, and in the distance Mount Gwanak:

The same view, but a bit further back with the helicopter pad in view:

Then I tried out the panorama setting on my Galaxy S3 camera. There’s a few wonky stitches, but overall I thought it looked pretty good:

Argh. This blog format doesn’t allow me to throw in extra-wide images. Need to find a good place to show off these panoramas…

No Snowpiercer for Me

SNOWPIERCER has pulled in 1.67 million admissions in its first three days. But, sadly, my wife and I were not two of them. We checked out two theaters, but despite having Snowpiercer on four screens in one and five in the other, there were no tickets to be had for hours (and most of those available were right under the screen).

No idea if people really like the movie, or if the 34 degree weather (feels like 44, says Wunderground) just has people hiding in the theaters.

We might try again tomorrow. Maybe in the morning.

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