Books, blog and other blather

Category: Seoul (Page 1 of 5)

Changing life, culture in a subway station

Recently, new and improved card readers have been installed throughout the Seoul subway system. And I guess they’re better now, with a more sensitive scanner and a small screen so you can get messages when something goes wrong (instead of just a cryptic numeric message, like the old system).

But seeing the readers getting installed got me thinking about the Seoul subway system and how much it has changed since I first arrived in Korea. You can see it in a lot of the stations — like Sangil Station, at the very end of the No. 5 subway line.

Sangil1

Sangil2

Some stations have managed to hide their histories, but not Sangil. You can clearly see where the old ticket machines and ticket counters used to be. Back in the 1990s, Seoul’s public transit was ticket-based, with little paper tickets you needed for every trip. There were single-use tickets, 10-trip tickets and other passes.

Naturally, to accommodate millions of subway riders, you needed to have many, many places to buy all those tickets. But no matter how many machines and agents there were, you still had lines most of the time. God, waiting to buy a ticket as you could hear your subway approaching was one of the most stressful things.

I always find it fascinating how these little structural changes can have such big changes in our lives. The lines are gone. All those ticket agents are gone. Plus you can track all the subways and buses from your phone, so you always know how long you have. Now that the whole Seoul system is all electronic, though, it’s hard to remember what that used to be like.

(Well, maybe not that hard. You can always just go to Tokyo and take the subway there. ^^ )

Btw, Sangil isn’t going to be the desolate end of the line for much longer. The No. 5 line is getting extended all the way to Misari in Hanam City, and with the extension, Gangdong-gu is doing a major commercial buildup of everything from Godeok Station to Sangil Station. The neighborhood is going to be very, very different very soon.

Sangil3

 

Gangdong-gu Fun

Gangdong-gu isn’t the sexiest district in Seoul. When I first moved here, after years in the fun of Seodaemun, Mapo and Jongno, I was a bit appalled. But I have to admit, Gangdong has slowly started to grow on me.

Thursday I took a little walk and fun some random things that really amused me. For one, Gangdong has a lot of green space. Here’s a couple of pics from near the Han River, right across from the Walker Hill Hotel.

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Green space, however, also means it has a surprising number of derelict buildings scattered throughout the district. Real Buffalo Bill places.

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And then, while going past a sad little garage near Amsa Station, I saw this: a Ferrari getting some serious work done.

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Oh, and here are a couple of photos of the Chuseok night moon. We had some great views of it in my part of town.

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Pedro Pelo Marco (Me!) — Brazil Comes to Seoul

Here is a fun project I participated in last year, but it only recently hit the airwaves—one of Brazil’s most popular travel programs, Pedro Pelo Mundo (Pedro Around the World).

Pedro Korea

Host Pedro Andrade and his wonderful team came to Korea last summer, where they met with a whole bunch of experts in food, fashion, tattoos, and more, to talk about what makes Korea so fascinating. And they were nice enough to ask me to be one of their guests, too.

Pedro Mark Hongdae

So we walked around Hongdae and talked about music (K-pop and other genres), and plenty of other things about Korea. It was a lot of fun.

Mark Pedro 2

Unfortunately, the full show is not online, so you can’t enjoy it all. But you can get a taste of it here, with a segment on the Cheonggyecheon.

2016 is winding down

Another year is nearly done, and once again I find my life strangely in flux. There’s a new job about to begin in January — in a totally new part of town I’ve never really hung out in before. I think it is a really good-looking job, but I will miss working in the old, run-down Euljiro part of town. It had a lot of ramshackle beauty.

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Meanwhile, I’m still at work on POP GOES KOREA, 2nd Edition. So much has gone on with Korea’s entertainment scene since the first edition, revising it is turning into a bigger task than I envisioned back in October. But I’m still hoping to get it done in time for the start of the next semester’s classes (for students who might need it as a resource).

Oh, because the weather is so cold at the moment, here are a couple of photos of Okinawa from a recent trip there. Sunny, warm Okinawa…

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Come on in, enjoy the nice warm water. But btw, here is a small list of the local critters that might maim or kill you…

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Oh, but here’s something from the sea that we killed first. Justice!

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Not a bad weekend …

Friday, the brutal month-long heatwave finally broke, as temperatures dropped into the 20s and nearly all the pollution just disappeared. The result was some of the best weather I can recall in Seoul in ages. Just great for sitting outside or having a picnic or whatever. And Sunday night—bonus—a rainbow.

Misari - Saturday morning

 

Gangdong Sunset

 

Gangdong Rainbow

 

Changing downtown Seoul

From Matt’s Gusts of Popular Feeling website, I came across this article on redevelopment plans for the Jongno/Junggu central parts of old Seoul. Kind of fascinating, on several levels.

Most notable is this map, both for what it shows and for what it doesn’t.

SeoulDevelopmentPlans

As you can see, pretty much everything along Jongno (and Sinmunno) is up for redevelopment, from Gyeongui Palace to Insa-dong. But that’s a bit weird, because most of that area has already been redeveloped. I doubt they’re doing to tear down the Four Seasons Hotel any time soon.

Similarly, the last of the old restaurants and pojang macha to the east of City Hall are slated to come down — which is a tiny bit sad, but to be honest there’s not a whole lot left there that really matters.

The area around and to the west of the main government buildings in the northwest of the map is also slated for redevelopment, which makes me a bit more wistful. But it is the center of town, and there’s nothing that’s really old, so my personal memories aside, I guess that’s not a big surprise.

What saddens me the most is to see that area between Jonggak and Jongno 2-ga on the north side of the road up for the wrecking ball. That would include that wonderful fish and makgeolli restaurant that was so important in Hong Sang-soo’s Virgin Stripped Bare by Her Bachelors.  I love that place … although I’m more than a little shocked it hasn’t just caved in and killed a dozen or so people already.

But the general trend of the government take a ham-fisted approach of designating certain areas to be protected continues. That always ends up “protecting” a bunch of buildings that are utterly unimportant and (more importantly) overlooking a lot lot of really important places. I do wish the Korean government would take an approach closer to, say, Barcelona, where building-by-building is examined for its importance.

It’s funny to think that the area on that map labelled “Jongno 5-ga” will be one of the last old-Seoul places to remain. When I first came to Seoul, most of the downtown felt like that, with the fish restaurants and labyrinthian alleys and random sweat shops. It’s probably a good thing that we don’t have so many sweat shops left, but it is still a bit sad to be losing the Seoul that I remember.

 

Warm weather in Korea

After the smog of April and before the hot and miserable weather comes, we are in the middle of some pretty nice weather. Here are some random pics of life in Seoul that I’ve encountered lately.

First of all, the green view from where I live.

Apart - May

It wasn’t so long ago it looked like this:

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Down by the Cheonggyecheon, lots of people were taking photos and fixated on something. What? Why?

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Ah, some kind of heron, hanging out in the stream.

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And I recently went up to the Shilla Hotel, for the first time in ages. Got lucky with a great moon and some moody clouds.

Shilla hotel night - april

Music history keeps moving on

A couple of events recently have made me all too aware of how everything is constantly changing in Korea, including the music scene. The biggest news of late (imho) is that the best music store in Korea, Hyang Music, is finally shutting down, closing its doors on March 12.

The cosy interior of Hyang Music (this photo blatantly taken from the Time Out article... Happy to take it down if anyone is upset).

The cosy interior of Hyang Music (this photo blatantly taken from the Time Out article… Happy to take it down if anyone is upset).

Hyang opened in 1991 and was going strong when I first arrived in Seoul back in the late 1990s. Back then, Korea was full of music stores (around 5,000 is the most common number I’ve seen), with several huge Tower Records around Seoul, a huge Hot Trax at Kyobo Books, and countless small shops seemingly on every corner. But most of them died out when the music market collapsed in Korea more than a decade ago. Even Hongdae’s great Purple Records closed last year, and now Hyang has fallen, too.

Even in the heyday of the music industry, Hyang was still the shop to go to, especially for local indie music. Back then, it felt like you could keep up with most of the CDs being released by the local indie scene, and if I could find a release, I usually bought a copy. Hyang was a tiny store, but it was in such a convenient location for me, on the road connecting the Shinchon Subway Station and the Yonsei main gate (being around the corner from Voodoo Bar, my favorite hangout way back then, helped, too). I couldn’t begin to guess all the CDs I bought there.

Clubs, too, are always opening and closing in Korea. Ruail Rock recently shut its doors, for instance. One of the first clubs in Seoul that I used to go to was Master Plan, which was located in Nogosan-dong, about halfway between Shinchon and Donggyo-dong. I used to go for the indie rock music, but soon after it turned into a hiphop club, and for quite a while it was at the heart of the Korean indie hiphop scene.

Now the fine young music writer Emma Kalka has published a fine history of Master Plan in the latest Groove Magazine. It’s an excellent and informative read, totally worth your time.

I’m old and boring now, so don’t go out very music. But I don’t want to be one of those boring old fossils who complains about how much better things used to be. I’m sad to be losing Hyang Music, just as I’m sad to have lost the other music stores and clubs. But change isn’t all negative, and the music scene today is probably bigger and more interesting than it’s been since I’ve been in Korea. So cheers to Hyang and Master Plan and everyone else who has gone before. And I’m looking forward to hearing all the music that comes next.

(Cross-posted to the Korea Gig Guide).

Another new year is already underway (lunar edition)

We had a late Lunar New Year this year, coming the week before Valentine’s Day. So welcome to the year of the red monkey (丙申年). To celebrate, here’s a look at a pretty Seollal sunset through a dirty subway window.

seoul sunset

For reasons I do not quite understand, my old post about Hongdae coffee shops from 18 months ago appears to be getting more interest. But of course, being Korea, 18 months is a long time, and most of the post is now out of date. So if you’re looking for good coffee in Hongdae, check before going anywhere.

In particular, Coffee Me is gone, having shut down last summer. Cafe Belief still exists, but it has moved to the Hapjeong area, behind the Mecenatpolis

Anthracite has apparently had some issues with its workers, but they seem to have solved those problems are going strong still. Yri and Jebi are still good, too, if you’re in the Sangsu area. On the Donggyo side of Hongdae, Gabia is still your best bet (imho), and Cafe Libre in Yeonnam-dong.

Anyhow, happy lunar new year.

 

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